This Low Angle Jack Plane is based on the Stanley 62. It is a 14" (35.56cm) plane with a 2" (5.08cm) blade bedded at 12°. An adjustable shoe allows easy, precise adjustment of the mouth opening.
The body is made from fully stress relieved Ductile Iron castings. The blade is a hefty 3/16" (4.7mm) thick, ground razor sharp. Adjustment is very positive with a knurled Stainless Steel captive nut. The cap iron is Bronze, the knob and handle are hand-finished Cherry.
This is an outstanding plane. The low angle blade set with the bevel up (making this technically a block plane) was originally designed for end grain work. The massive blade makes for very smooth cutting on end or long grain and figured woods. The blade is shipped with a 25° flat bevel. Using higher angles up to 40° gives excellent results on difficult grain. This can easily be done by honing a small secondary bevel at the higher angle. An extra blade on hand prepared this way is very handy.
The generous handle is hand-shaped for a comfortable grip. The soles are ground dead flat. Design and workmanship combine to make a tool that will be a pleasure to own and use every day for years to come.
Some People like to use this Low Angle Jack for shooting. The new 'Hot Dog' attachment will make this technique much more comfortable.
Toothed blades for Block Planes and Bench Planes have small chisel-like teeth .030" (.762mm) wide, and spaced .030" apart. They are used for heavy stock removal in difficult grain. Follow with a fine-set Smoothing Plane.
For the best finishes, use a very sharp blade set to take a fine cut. The mouth opening should be no larger than necessary to pass the chip. When you want to cut more aggressively, open the mouth more and advance the blade for a deeper cut. For best results on end grain, set the blade and mouth fine.
Geometry: The blade sits in the body at 12°; it comes with a 25° flat ground bevel, making the included cutting angle 37°.
Blade Sharpening: The blade comes ready to use. Slight additional honing will increase performance. A secondary bevel of up to 5 degrees helps achieve a razor edge quickly. This also improves edge life in hardwoods. For more information on advanced sharpening techniques we suggest David Charlesworth's DVD Hand Tool Techniques: Plane Sharpening.
Mouth Adjustment: Hold the tool in one hand and loosen the front knob about 1/4 turn. Adjust with the brass lever. Tighten the knob again firmly, but do not overtighten.
Blade Adjustment: Blade adjustment is simple, direct and positive. Hold the tool in one hand with your thumb on the cap. Loosen the cap iron thumbscrew all the way, then tighten slightly until there is a little resistance. Adjust depth of cut with the stainless steel nut. Sight down the base of the tool from the front, and judge depth and squareness of blade by the thin dark line of the blade showing against the sole as it protrudes. When you are done, snug the cap thumbscrew. Do not overtighten. Make sure the mouth is adequately open before advancing the blade to avoid damaging the edge.
Lateral Adjustment: The Low Angle Jack Plane intentionally has very little lateral adjustment of the blade. This is an advantage. As you adjust the blade, it will track squarely with the sole. The disadvantage is that you must sharpen the blade square. Today there are many good jigs on the market that make this easy to do. If you find that you don’t like this feature, you can grind the blade narrower to give more lateral play.
Materials: The body is cast from Ductile Iron, a very strong alloy that will take a lot of abuse. These castings are fully stress-relieved, a process that removes inherent stresses and ensures that the tool will remain flat and true. The cap is Manganese Bronze. Other parts are Brass, Steel and Cherry.
The blade is 3/16" A-2 cryogenically treated Tool Steel, double tempered to Rockwell 60-62.
The heat treating technique ensures that the blade will take and hold a very fine edge for a long time. After heat treating, the blade is fully surface ground on the top, back, and cutting edge, giving a smooth, flat surface that will take a mirror finish very quickly. The thick blade provides solid
Maintenance: The sole is ground flat to .0015" or less. Occasional hand lapping with fine wet/dry sandpaper (320 grit or higher) on a flat surface like a glass plate, will help remove dings and keep it true. The cap iron can be polished with any good brass polish, or allowed to patina with age and use. Occasionally, the tool should be disassembled, cleaned, and moving parts oiled. The blade should be kept lightly oiled to prevent rust, especially when the tool is not in use. We recommend Camellia Oil, a vegetable oil based product. It is non-toxic, odor-free and easy to use. Also, in our shop, we use a fine abrasive handblock to remove any light surface oxide from tool bodies and blades. Camellia Oil and abrasive handblocks are available from us.
Guarantee: Materials and workmanship are guaranteed for the life of your tool. Call for repairs or replacement parts. We are available for advice if you ever have a problem using your tool.