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Lie Nielsen No. 10 1/4 Bench Rebate Plane

Product code: 421051

Availability: In stock (1 currently available)

£380.50

£317.08

ex VAT

Free UK delivery on most orders over 45 pounds

Also referred to as a Carriage Maker’s Rebate or Jack Rebate Plane, this plane is the largest rebate plane made. There have been several versions of this tool. Lie Nielsen's is based on the Stanley 10¼, which had not been made since the Second World War, and had never before been made in the Bedrock format. It features cross-grain nickers and tilting knobs and handles.

This tool is stout and has excellent balance. The cross-grain nickers cut grain fibers ahead of the blade to produce a clean, square, vertical cut. The nickers are small blades, ground dead flush with the sides of the tool. Easy to sharpen and easy to set to depth or retract. Also, one can adjust the tilt of the handle and knob to either side to more easily get the tool into a large corner cut.

Ductile Iron body, Bronze cap and frog, Cherry handles, 12¾" (32.4cm) long, with 2-1/8" (5.39cm)x 1/8" (3.17mm) thick blade. Weight 5 lbs.

A Bench Rebate Plane is very handy for workinglarge rebates and tenons, while also doubling as a Jack Plane.

USE & CARE INSTRUCTIONS

The Lie-Nielsen Bench Rebate Plane is based on the Stanley Bedrock-type planes. Bedrocks were Stanley’s top line of Bench Planes, heavier and better made than the standard. In addition, the construction of the frog is unique — it features a fully machined fit between frog and body, adjustable from the rear without having to remove the blade and cap.This allows you to easily change the mouth setting from a coarse to a fine cut for difficult woods or fine smoothing passes. For heavy cuts, adjust the frog back so the blade rests directly on the plane body.

Geometry:
All Bench Plane blades are bedded at 45° with the bevel down.

Blade Sharpening: Your Lie-Nielsen Bench Plane is ready to cut wood out of the box. The blade is ground sharp at a 25° bevel. A seconary bevel of up to 5 degrees helps achieve a razor edge quickly. This also improves edge life in hardwoods.

Mouth Adjustment: To adjust the mouth opening, loosen the two locking screws at the back of the frog. Then turn the middle adjusting screw. Observe the opening in front of the blade. When it is correct, set the locking screws again.

Improved Chipbreaker: Our Improved Chipbreaker is 1/8" thick. The raised lip underthe bevel of the chip-breaker is back beveled 1° to ensure that the leading edge contacts the blade firmly. You should never need to dress this surface, but if you do, use a very fine stone and be sure to maintain the angle. The 25° bevel may be honed occasionally. For general work, set the end of the chipbreaker about 1/16" from the cutting edge of the blade; for the finest smoothing work, set it closer to the edge.

Blade Adjustment: Removing and re-installing the blade can be tricky. The easiest method is to remove the cap screw first. To advance the blade, turn the adjuster screw clockwise. It is always a good idea to finish adjusting the blade with a forward adjustment to take up backlash and prevent the blade from moving. In order to be able to adjust the blade easily, do not overtighten the lever cap screw.

The blade is about .005" wider than the body. Align the edge of the blade with the side of the body that you want it flush with (laying the tool on its side helps to do this quickly and accurately) or grind a little off the side of the blade to make it flush with both sides if you want.

Nickers: Nickers cut cross grain fibers first to give a clean shoulder when rebateing across the grain. Adjust the nicker so it is a little deeper than your depth of cut. Retract the nicker when it is not needed. The nicker screw thread is 8-32.

Tilting Handles: Loosen the nut on top of the knob and handle to tilt to one side or the other. Tighten, but do not overtighten, nuts. Lubricate the pivot bar occasionally.

Materials: The body is cast from Ductile Iron, a very strong alloy that will take a lot of abuse.These castings are fully stress relieved, a process that removes inherent stresses and ensures that the tool will remain flat and true. The cap and frog are Manganese Bronze. The blade is A-2 cryogenically treated Tool Steel, tempered to Rockwell 60-62. Our heat treating technique ensures that the blade will take and hold a very fine edge for a long time. After heat treating, the blade is fully surface ground on the top, back, and cutting edge, giving a smooth, flat surface that will take a mirror finish very quickly. The .125" thick blade provides solid chatter-free cutting.

Maintenance: The bodies are surface ground flat and square to a tolerance of .0015". Depending on how much use your tool gets, an occasional light sanding with 320 grit or finer wet/dry paper on a flat surface will keep the sole in as-new condition. Tools with Iron bodies should be kept lightly oiled or waxed to prevent rust. A light oiling on the threaded rod and Brass adjuster and the lateral adjustment lever will keep them moving freely. We recommend Camellia Oil, a vegetable oil based product. It is non-toxic, odor-free and easy to use. Also, in our shop, we use a fine abrasive handblock to remove any light surface oxide from tool bodies and blades. Camellia Oil and the abrasive handblock are available from us.

Many people like the patina that Bronze gets with age and use, but if you wish to keep the finish bright, a little brass polish is in order. Cherry knob and handle are finished with wiping varnish and should require no maintenance.

Guarantee: Materials and workmanship are guaranteed for the life of your tool.